The Holy Land

On the ride from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem, we drive along the West Bank for some time. I see houses on either side of the wall, and contemplate about of how different life is on each side. There is a world of difference surrounding this seemingly small, meters wide barrier, a highway and wall.

I have never seen a city like Old Jerusalem in my life. Old Jerusalem is best described as a fortified maze which houses the Christian, Jewish, Muslim and Armenian quarters. I entered at Jaffa gate, and luckily my hostel was just a block within the gate. Jerusalem is a very important city for 3 major religions (Judaism, Islam, Christianity) and the mélange of traces of each religion in the city is truly fabulous. All co-existing in harmony (more or less). First is Mount Moraya, where the iconic Gold Dome is located. This is where Abraham had to sacrifice his son Isaac, and where Adam and Eve were created. And not too far down the road, Elaksa Dome – where Prophet Mohammed walked from to the Gold Dome and got lifted to heaven. We walk through the maze of shops, intricate steps, and people, stopping at each station starting at Via Dolrosa:

Station 5: where Simon helped Christ with his cross, Christ’s handprint on the wall
Station 6: where Veronica wiped Christ’s face
Station 7: where Christ fell on his knees for the second time
Station 12: where Christ was crucified at Golgata

Watching the other folks in the tour group, many of whom were on religious pilgrimages to Jerusalem, my mind drifts to my religious confusion as a child. I grew up believing in both Hinduism and Catholicism, since I went to Catholic school as a child. I’d always wonder why I wasn’t allowed to participate in any of the church activities that the other students were a part of. I believe in Christ just as much as you do. Though painful, it was a learning experience as it has taught me to be open to all religions, fueling my curiosity and interest in Buddhism as well. I’ve made one pilgrimage in India to Hrishikesh and Haridwar, staying in the ashram of a guru that I followed in NJ. I spent the days in classes, going to the evening aarti’s at the Ganges river. Spiritually, I had never felt stronger. My time in Jerusalem makes me yearn to go back to India to visit other holy sites..Varnasi, Dwarika..etc.

I didn’t spend too much time outside this area, other than to visit the Israel Museum. There was just not enough time to get lost and explore all the various quarters, however our tour guide said it was probably not a good idea to enter certain parts of the Muslim quarter. Back at the hostel, it was nice to speak to Janelle, a teacher from the UK who had also spent some time in Morocco. She could relate to my frustrations of traveling alone in the Arab world as she had similar experiences in Jordan.

I buy myself several “hamsa” or “hand of Fatima” pendants, not only in Israel, but also in Jordan. I am intrigued by this symbol that has such significance in Judaism and Islam. I first encountered this symbol in Morocco; it was on many doors of homes. The significance of the hamsa is to protect against nazar, or the evil eye. I wear it daily on my chain, as a reminder and symbol of harmony and finding a solution in difficult situations. Though there are numerous conflicts in the Arab, Israeli, Palestinian world, here is one symbol of commonality. I’ve had many of my Jewish friends ask me about it, in confusion, why I was wearing it, since I am not Jewish.